( Since my plan is to test operating systems from an end-user perspective, I did spend just a couple of minutes trying to figure out the problem without success so testing of GhostBSD failed for me.īut to give chance to BSD family I tried another desktop-ready system called NomadBSD ( ). I download an ISO image and put it on a flash drive, but stuck in the boot process where I always end it up with a broken picture. The first episode had to be about GhostBSD ( ) which is a BSD system based on the FreeBSD project ( ) which is a more general-purpose operating system mostly used on server applications, with pre-configured desktop and apps. As a daily user of GNU/Linux (currently Elementary OS, but planning to give chance to Manjaro) and Mac OS (on my work laptop) I am pretty happy, but since I have one older spare laptop I told to myself, why do not explore what is outside. I got an idea to test a couple of not common Desktop class operating systems to find if there is some other alternative to let's say big three (Windows, Mac OS, and GNU/Linux). When he isn't working on a computer or DIY project, he is most likely to be found camping, backpacking, or canoeing.I know this is not a topic exactly for this platform, on the other hand, why do not extends our wisdom. He has designed crossovers for homemade speakers all the way from the basic design to the PCB. He regularly repairs and repurposes old computers and hardware for whatever new project is at hand. He enjoys DIY projects, especially if they involve technology. He also uses Proxmox to self-host a variety of services, including a Jellyfin Media Server, an Airsonic music server, a handful of game servers, NextCloud, and two Windows virtual machines. He has been running video game servers from home for more than 10 years using Windows, Ubuntu, or Raspberry Pi OS. Nick's love of tinkering with computers extends beyond work. In college, Nick made extensive use of Fortran while pursuing a physics degree. Before How-To Geek, he used Python and C++ as a freelance programmer. He has been using computers for 20 years - tinkering with everything from the UI to the Windows registry to device firmware. Nick Lewis is a staff writer for How-To Geek. If you installed them from DVD or downloaded the installation files, you'll need to find those - along with any necessary activation keys. You'll also need make sure you have access to your applications for reinstallation. While it typically goes faster than transferring your OS to the new drive, doing a clean installation does mean that you'll have reinstall the apps and games you want, and restore your personal files from backup (or copy them from the new drive). The downside, of course, is that you have to do all that. You get to set it the way you want, and only install what you want. No old program installations hanging around it's a fresh copy of your OS without the clutter. The big one is that you get to start fresh. There are also advantages to just performing a clean installation of your operating system on your new drive. You can go that way with a desktop, too, but it may be easier just to install the new drive, do the transfer, and then decide whether to leave the old drive in place for extra storage or uninstall it. If you use a laptop, you'll need to use a USB-based SATA adapter or enclosure so that you can have both drives hooked up at once. Getting more storage on an SSD will be more important to most people than getting more speed. So you might not want to splurge on the fastest SSD you can get. The default answer here is "as fast as you can afford." That said, if you're upgrading from a hard drive to an SSD, you're going to be blown away by the speed increase no matter what. More storage costs more money, no matter what type of drive you're looking at. This one's easy: whatever fits your budget. Laptops don't use SATA cables, so just make sure that the drive you're upgrading to uses the same SATA revision or newer than the drive it's replacing. The same goes for the SATA cable you buy. On desktops, you'll want to make sure that the drive you're buying is as fast or faster than the connection that your motherboard accepts - most motherboard SATA connections from the last five years have at least 3.0 support. The latest revision to the SATA standard is SATA 3.3, and drives and cables are backwards compatible with older versions. You'll usually be able to plug the drive right into a slot that already has the power and data connections ready - no cables to connect. If you're installing into a laptop that allows user access, things are easier.
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